Attractions Blog

by Barbara Ann Weibel of Hole In The Donut

The Apache Trail in Arizona is one of the most spectacular scenic drives in the country, if not in the world. It is also one of the most intimidating, hair raising drives. The original Trail was intended as a delivery route for materials required in the construction of Roosevelt Dam, which began in 1905. Back then, the rough graded single lane road seemed to hang precariously from the sheer faces of the rocky canyons from which it was carved. Only an occasional pullout was provided for passing, and even in places where the road widened, torturous twists in the roadway made it impossible to know if oncoming traffic was around the next bend. Although the present day Apache Trail has been widened and improved, the going is still not that easy. The road twists and turns and features twenty unpaved miles between Tortilla Flat and Roosevelt Dam, including the contorted and breathtaking 900 foot descent of Fish Creek Hill. But for those with an adventurous spirit and no fear of heights, traveling the Apache Trail is a “must do.”

Apache Lake, as viewed from the Apache Trail.

To get to the Trail, take U.S. 60 east out of Phoenix. At the town of Apache Junction, take cutoff for AZ88/Idaho Road. A short way down this winding, paved portion of the road is the ghost town of Goldfield, which sprang into existence in 1982 when high grade gold ore was discovered in the area. Just five years later the vein began to play out and miners abandoned the town. Goldfield stood empty and decaying until 1984, when Robert F. “Bob” Schoose, a long time ghost town, mining, and treasure-hunting enthusiast, purchased the site of the original mill and began restoring the town. Once again thriving, Goldfield has a brothel, bakery, leather works, jail, and a livery. Visitors can take an underground mine tour, ride the only operating narrow gauge railroad in Arizona, and enjoy the authentic looking street filled with people in period costume, horses and wagons, and sometimes authentic gunfighter presentations.

A few miles further is Canyon Lake, one of three man-made reservoir lakes that were formed by the construction of the dam. Canyon, Apache, and Roosevelt Lakes provide some of the most outstanding water recreation in Arizona, so some day trippers may want to stop for a refreshing swim, cast a fish line, or hop aboard the Dolly Steamboat for a 90-minute narrated boat trip. From Canyon Lake, it’s only a few more miles to Tortilla Flat, a real town with six inhabitants. Like the Trail itself, the town of Tortilla Flat owes its existence to the construction of the dam; it served as a stagecoach stop for freight haulers on their way to the construction site. Today this classic western town is a great place to shop for souvenirs or stop for lunch. Since this town has its own post office and voting district, visitors can honestly claim they have been to the smallest town in Arizona.

The original masonry Roosevelt Dam, as it looked until it underwent modifications in 1989.

The faint of heart may wish to turn back at this point because the pavement ends at Tortilla Flat, but daredevils who continue will be rewarded with vistas of sheer canyons, shimmering blue lakes, and stately saguaro cactus. At the end of the road is the most spectacular sight of all - Roosevelt Dam itself.

Aerial view of the reconstructed Roosevelt Dam with Roosevelt Lake Bridge in the background. Bureau of Reclamation photo, by J. Madrigal, Jr., 1996.

Originally, Roosevelt was the world’s largest masonry dam, built with stone blocks to a height of 280 feet and measuring 723 feet long at the crest. In the mid-80’s engineers determined that the dam could not safely release water during a maximum flood event and would be unstable in a strong earthquake, thus the original dam was encased in a new concrete block structure that now stands 357 feet high and is 1,210 feet long.

Although the look of the dam was significantly altered by the modifications, it is still an astonishing piece of engineering. Just before reaching Roosevelt Dam, the pavement resumes and a fine rest area with clean facilities, a picnic table, and an overlook with an excellent view of the dam is provided. Once at the dam, visitors have the choice to go back the way they came or continue in a circle route that leads back to Apache Junction via modern, paved roads.

Photos not otherwise attributed are by Barbara Weibel