But for a unique turn of events, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco would have remained just another church in a dusty, out-of-the-way village in central Mexico. The church’s whitewashed adobe walls and modest design provide no hint of the treasures within. Unsuspecting visitors frequently step over the threshold and gasp in astonishment, unable to reconcile the unadorned exterior with an interior where gilded statuary stands in every alcove and 18th century murals depicting saints, martyrs, and scenes from the Passion of Christ and the Last Judgment cover every inch of the walls and ceilings. Though unique for their incredible detail and “folk Baroque” style, the murals are also significant in that they were painted by Miguel Antonio Martínez Pocasangre, said to be the only indigenous artist to have ever painted murals in a Mexican church.

Simple exterior of Sanctuary of Atotonilco belies the riches inside

Still, the lovely church might have faded into obscurity had it not been for the part it played in Mexico’s struggle for Independence. On September 16, 1810, Catholic priest Miguel Hidalgo preached revolt against the Spanish rulers of Mexico from the pulpit of his Cathedral in nearby Dolores Hidalgo. Following the sermon, Hidalgo led a mob of Indians and mestizos on a long march toward Mexico City, but first they stopped at the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, where Hidalgo affixed an image of the Holy Mother of Guadalupe to a lance as his banner.

Although the church was enshrined in the hearts and psyche of Mexicans, over the years it deteriorated until its murals and statuary were in deplorable condition. Fortunately, the World Monuments Fund named the church to its list of 100 most endangered monuments, bringing the plight of the historic structure into the spotlight. With a $20,000 grant from American Express and an additional $500,000 pesos from State of Guanajuato, restoration work began in 1996. The damaged exterior stucco and roof were replaced, the murals were professionally cleaned, restored, and stabilized against further deterioration. Finally, in 2001, the church was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, ensuring that it will be protected and preserved in perpetuity.

Interior of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

Today the Sanctuary of Atotonilco is an important stop for tourists and pilgrimages. Most any weekend and during festivals, penitents can be seen circling the church on their knees in an attempt to duplicate the sufferings of Christ, while others tie bundles of spiny nopal cactus to their bare chests, wear hair shirts, or beat themselves with whips. The sanctuary is located approximately six miles outside the popular tourist enclave of San Miguel de Allende.

Photo Credit: Barbara Weibel

Article by Barbara Weibel of Cultural Travel with Hole In The Donut