Feb 12, 2009 12:26 - By: Barbara Weibel
by Barbara Ann Weibel of Hole In The Donut
Like most kids, I grew up eating pancakes. Mostly we had plain buttermilk or buckwheat flapjacks, but sometimes Mom threw in bananas or chocolate chips for variety. On occasion she got really creative and made pancakes with Mickey Mouse ears. Ah yes, my sisters and I were pancake gourmands. Or so I thought until I visited New England.

Quiet in the fall, the Sugar House becomes a beehive of activity every spring as the sap is boiled down to produce pure maple syrup
Last October I finally took a long anticipated “leaf-peeping” trip to see the fall colors. Wandering the back roads of Vermont near the town of Woodstock, I spied a sign for Sugarbush Farm that invited visitors to “learn about maple syrup making with our sugar house tour and walk our nature trail to see the sugar maple trees.” I suppose I’d always known that maple syrup came from trees; after all, there’s a reason those trees are named ‘maples.” But I’d never given it much thought.

This boiler cooks off excess water, making a single gallon of syrup from every 40 gallons of sap
Intrigued, I crossed the red covered bridge, wound to the top of the hill, and followed the signs for three miles. Like bread crumbs, they led me to the 550-acre working farm of Jeff and Ralph Luce. Since 1945, the Luce family has been making maple syrup the old fashioned way, tapping 6,000 trees and collecting the sap each March with a sled pulled by two Belgian horses. Following time-honored traditions, the crystal clear sap is boiled down in their on-site sugar house until it turns to gold, requiring 40 gallons of sap to produce a single gallon of pure Vermont maple syrup.
These days, Sugarbush Farm has branched out into cheese production, making 14 varieties from the milk of their own cows. Smoked flavors spend three days and nights in their smoke house, which can accommodate 2100 pounds per batch. All cheeses are then aged at 38-40 degrees for 2-3 years in a cooler that holds 80,000 pounds of cheese. The Luces have definitely honed the art of sustainability. The cows are fed with hay grown on the farm and the sugar boiler is fired with wood from older trees that no longer produce sap and so must be culled from the grove.

The only concession to modern technology are the miles of PVC lines that collect the sap, replacing metal traditional buckets
After visiting the sugar house, watching the video about maple sugar production, and taking the self-guiding hike up the hillside to see how the trees are tapped, I returned to the main farm house. Built in 1860, the homestead now serves as the farm’s gift house and cheese wrapping facility. At the urging of the staff, I tasted all 14 flavors of cheese and then began sampling the four different grades of maple syrup. The moment the golden liquid touched my lips, I knew I had been sorely misled. Why, that bottled stuff we poured over our pancakes as children was little more than sugar water! This stuff – well – this was nectar of the gods. No more Aunt Jemima for this gal. It’s pure maple syrup from now on or nothing.

In the cheese-wrapping room, visitors are encouraged to sample all 14 varieties of cheese and four grades of maple syrup
Maple season is in the early spring, but Sugarbush Farm is open year round. Since there is no entrance fee, a visit to the farm is a fun and economical day trip for families. Central Vermont is home to numerous attractions and exquisite scenery throughout the year, but if you plan to visit during the peak “leaf-peeping” months of September and October, be sure to book accommodations ahead of time.
Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel